It's taken me the best part of the summer to get myself together to write this post. Like a lot of things in life, my trip to Berlin that occurred in mid-June has gathered a dust of haze that has illuminated its edges with a sweet tinge of romanticism. If you are familiar with my past writing at all you have probably already become accustomed to my partiality towards this. The one thing that I am asked time and time again by friends is the best things to do when visiting the city of wonder, so based on my experience I've compiled a list of 10 tips. I'd love to hear some of your own in return.
1) Stay somewhere out of the ordinary
When picking a hostel to spend a week in Hannah and I did the usual thing of trailing through trip advisor feeling increasingly despondent. Friends who I have spoken to have done everything from couch surfing to hostel hopping, the former sounding like one of the best ways to really delve into the heart of the city. We settled on the slightly obscure option of a hostel boat. Eastern Comfort is situated directly behind the East Side Gallery, something which took us a little bit too long to discover. Surrounded by Friedrichshain in the former East, my personal favourite district, and Kreuzberg in the former West you really couldn't ask for a better location with transport links a mere skip and a jump down the road. We found ourselves in a little cabin with just enough space for 6 bunk beds, but one look out of the window at the river cascading in the sun and the space appeared to stretch endlessly before us. Though many a morning was spent in deliberation as to whether it was in fact the boat that was moving or our fragile heads, nothing quite matched being perched on the outside deck, glass of wine in hand, in the cool evening breeze.
2) Have breakfast outside
A brief walk along the streets of Friedrichshain will display rows of cafes, lined with tables on the street outside. Settling into a seat one morning, book in hand and pastry at the ready we found ourselves in perfect company. In a moment that was reminiscent of Snow White we became surrounded by a flock of tiny birds, perched on our table and chirping underneath. There seems no better way to spend a morning than watching the fluttered excitement of feathers over a few crumbs.
3) Indulge in an Indian
One of the great things about many of the restaurants in Berlin is the layout of tables, which face outwards towards the street so that everyone ends up sat in a prime people watching position. On the first night, we did exactly this over a beautifully selected Indian feast. The richness of the food held great superiority over the dishes in the UK, and we both ended up having to practically roll ourselves home for having eyes that are certainly bigger than our stomachs.
4) Don't get caught up on door policies
One downfall to Berlin is the notorious door policies of clubs. A night can go either way, as a breeze to go into places or the greatest challenge possible. If you scour the internet there are countless tips on how best to achieve entry but these can often prove entirely fruitless. Thankfully, with places staying open through much of the day and an abundance of locations to choose from there will always be something. Discovering the huge variation between the clubs of Berlin is one of the great joys of the nightlife. From entering into a building that from the outside resembled nothing more than an ordinary house, but opened out to reveal a tiny one-roomed tech-house club, to the blackout techno club that stretched into a courtyard where we danced the day away with sunlight streaming on to us. Of course, there is Berlin's infamous use of abandoned spaces, and for me Stattbad stood out as a cut above the rest. Positioned in an abandoned leisure centre, lined with pipes and ominous boilers that loom over you as you dance into the day, we got lost here for numerous hours among a crowd that was both approachable and warm, to the sound of Detroit Swindle. Sadly, when we went only part of the club was open but the rest of it boasts an impressive empty swimming pool turned dance floor. A real wonder compared to the dominantly sparse buildings of the UK scene.
5) See the city by bicycle
If, like me, you are a bit of a restless person there's no better way to see a city than by bike. Following the distance of the u-bahn and speeding through parks under a canopy of trees. A feeling of weightlessness over the course of the day. It made it that much easier to get to grips with the layout of the city and discover my favourite parts. Clumsiness does prevail and I did find myself lying under an overturned wheel with a debris of smashed beer bottles scattered around me, but then I did leave with a few scabs to show for my day of fun and Hannah got the hilarious image of me toppling over at great speed.
6) Get lost in Templehof Airport
As mentioned above, there is a cornucopia of abandoned areas to conquer across Berlin. My only regret is that I did not take the time to explore more of them. At least I have more reason to return and do so next time. Abandoned Berlin provides a detailed documentation of many of these sites so in preparation of a trip it can prove far more helpful than a travel guide. One of the better known and more accessible of the options is Templehof Airport, initially constructed in 1923 it underwent mass reconstruction by the Nazis in the 1930s in anticipation of increasing air traffic. Since its closure, the airport has now been transformed into a national park. Huge stretches of runways are now filled with skateboarders and cyclists, establishing one of the biggest playgrounds I've ever encountered. Under the ominous shadow of the airport itself there is nothing quite like watching the fading daylight emit itself against the huge structures. Next to the great expanse of tarmac a community garden has been created, establishing a commitment to horticulture that reminded me of the Green Fields at Glastonbury. Sculptures of airplanes are struck in miniature contrast to the real wartime models that can be observed dotted around the fields. A place definitely better seen on bicycle for maximum exploring potential.
7) Go to Mauerpark on a Sunday
At the point of entering Mauerpark on a sun filled Sunday I had not slept in 3 days. This inevitably enhanced the curiosity of being lost in a mass of crowds scouring the flea market. Still in no way comparable to my astonishment at being met with a stone amphitheatre filled with onlookers of a karaoke set. Much of Berlin seems to descend on the park to lounge about on a lazy Sunday and with the fading cries of a stranger's voice filling the air it is certainly set apart from your average day in a park.
8) Venture out of the city centre for some wild swimming
11am and I find myself leaving the dark constraints of another Berlin club and entering into the waiting rays of light pressing down against my tired eyes. Jumping on a train, I am quickly led out of the hectic buzz of a city day, and before I can grab my bearings I am walking through a vast woodland, enveloped by rows of trees as far as the eye can see. Eventually the trees start to diminish in numbers and we find ourselves at a clearing, staring hard at the idyllic setting before us. A perfectly still lake awaits, with the only sign of life surrounding it being the outline of a nudist doing yoga in the morning light and a single tent erected among the strips of long grass. It transpired as one of those pinch yourself moments where I was convinced that I must be dreaming. The completeness of that single moment, presented with an image of nature at its height, is still beyond me. Skinny dipping in the ice cold waters ensued before we collectively passed out in the sun among the hum of cicadas. Entirely at peace and in the company of my favourite people, I have never felt such an extreme appreciation for a present moment. It sits as the pinnacle of my time in Berlin and an indication of the scattered opportunities that the city offers.
9) Find some locals to show you around
Leading me on to the penultimate line of advice for an expedition through the varied waters of Berlin. Find someone to guide you along the way. We were lucky enough to have the exceptional companionship of two people who had spent time previously getting to grips with the city and without them our experience would in no way be the same. Their commitment to showing us the best of Berlin ensured that we left with a great fondness for the city in tow.
10) Leave your expectations at the door and be prepared for adventure
The one thing that people returning from Berlin seem to have in common is an overwhelming urge to go back. It is this that assures me that the possibilities that are offered by the winding streets are endless. As long as you travel with an open mind, ready for whatever may meet you along the path, I have no doubt that the charm of the city will affect you in the same way it has everyone I know.
All photography (except Templehof Airport) by Lizzy Gilson.
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